Time to take another look at the fitting process.
Last time, I was struggling with the back. I wanted it fitted enough to skim the curves of my back as I think the baggy back wasn't very flattering on me! I wondered if I had a sway back, but pinning horizontally didn't seem to work out.
In the end I decided to make two extra back darts (rather a huge reduction in the back- each dart was 2.5cm wide).
|Sort of like this.|
This followed the curve of my back much better.
Was this the "right" way to do it? I don't know! Do I have a sway back? I still don't know, lol! These answers may come in time....
I also fussed with the front a bit too. I did another small SBA, and then thought I was really smart by moving the bust dart up, since on my muslin the dart was too low. But I wasn't smart, lol! I found out while constructing the final top that when you do a SBA, that naturally moves the bust apex up.... so I had to move the dart back down again.
Then when trying it on, I found excess fabric at centre front at the waist.
|Spot the wrinkle?|
Yeah, then I had wrinkles under the boobs. But a good pressing sorted them. Not the boss of me!
|Pre-pressing- Not perfect, but better.|
Things I have learned through this process:
- This top wasn't as easy to fit as I expected! I suspect a princess seamed top like the Pendrell would have been easier to start with! More seams= more control.
- I realise that my desire to have things fit my body very snugly may not be quite compatible with this pattern, lol. I'm not used to wearing wovens- my usual is a body-hugging knit top! The good news is that I can *just* get this top on and off. lol!
- People on the internet are so helpful and I appreciate every word of advice and encouragement. Thanks guys!
Thoughts for next time:
- I will have to figure out how to reduce the sleeve cap ease, to eliminate the unwanted gathering effect.
- I think I may have to redraw the armhole inwards. See how it seems to be creating a vertical fold near the armholes? I think there is too much width there. That's my theory, anyhow.