Thursday, 25 July 2013

Completed: New Look 6594 Pleated Skirt

This is probably almost the most basic thing you could possibly make...Well, not "easy" basic, I mean "extremely practical wardrobe" basic. You follow?
Anyway, I'm revisiting a pattern I made a while ago, when I first decided I wanted to sew. I like to think I've learned something since then. I'm too embarrassed to link to the old project cos I look so dorky! Haha!
Oh fine, here you go. I like my new skirt better, though the photos I got are iffy. The bright sunlight is super unflattering on the face...
Oh yeah, and the skirt's a bit wrinkly because I was wearing it before the photos. This photoshoot business...
Super-squinty face!  Get me out of this awful sun!
(Fun fact- I hate being in the sun, and avoid it at all costs).  Ahh... focus on the skirt!

There were issues with the old one for sure. Something you can't really see in the old photos is that the yoke tilts! It isn't the right shape for my body- something I had no idea about back then. Not a clue! So that means I'm learning, which is good.  
The other issue was that it sat too low.  After a lot of thought, I feel that for a yoke to be flattering, it really has to hit in the right spot on the body. The seam between the yoke and skirt should be about on the hip bone, I reckon.
This time I put more thought and work into getting the skirt to fit me.  I'm planning to put up a quick post on how I fitted the yoke.

Instead of tilting, it now sits nice and horizontal, which means the skirt hangs properly too!  Yay!  Check out my vertical side seam! :) That mean I could just hem the skirt at a uniform length which was nice and easy :)

So, back to the style- I thought it would be a good idea to make something relatively simple (for confidence building!), and I have a bit more of a focus on practical garments at the moment. Hopefully I can wear this with a bunch of stuff :)
The skirt is simply a rectangle with a bunch of knife pleats thrown at it.

I added a lining too...(can't make it too simple now can we?? I fudged it in, no idea what I'm doing as usual). I always feel compelled to add linings to skirts, it just feels so luxurious and fancy. It is extra work though... is it worth it? I don't know if a skirt this flared would stick to tights, but ooh, speaking of which:
This fabric!! It attracts dust and lint like no-one's business!  It gave my lint roller a real workout and I suspect it will continue to. Why would someone invent a fabric like this? It's a cotton spandex blend infused with tiny dust magnets. Ick.

I was concerned that the extra stretch in the fabric would ruin how the yoke fitted, although the top of the yoke is stayed with twill tape. In the end I decided that the non-stretch fusible interfacing I used would help, and using a non-stretch fabric for the facing would keep it stable too. Can't be too careful right?  
For the yoke facing, I actually used the lining fabric.  
It does keep bulk down (yay, I hate bulky seams!), but I haven't seen this technique used much, so I worry there's may be a reason for that. lol! I hope I don't have any problems with it. I do have a RTW skirt with a lining as a waistband facing, but that's for a thick-ish wool, so I can see how it would be necessary in that case.

Both lining and facing made from lining fabric.

Here you can see the hand-sewn zipper and the fact it's covered in dust again ALREADY.  This fabric!!!

Oh yeah, and I styled it with one of my Renfrew tops!

I don't know if that wrinkle on the right's a fitting wrinkle, a construction wrinkle, or a wrinkle wrinkle??
Solution: cover wrinkle with arm. Also, I look super evil here.
Even though I put a lot of work into fitting the yoke, I still had to tweak it while sewing, as it still didn't sit quite high enough (just having to take it in a bit). I hate tweaking things while sewing!! I can't wait until I'm good enough to get it just right in the toile stage. It'll happen right??

Oh yeah, and even though this was an "easy", confidence-building project, I still managed to screw up a bunch... Messed up sewing the zip in by machine twice, gave up and put it in by hand.... I also messed up stitching in the ditch to secure the facing, gave up, and slip stitched it by hand. It can be so frustrating, but I'm doing my best to be positive with myself.

I did the hem by hand too, though I was tempted to machine stitch it. You know, I have a blind-hem foot I should totally try sometime!

The back.  Yep.
I guess this is on the boring side of the sewing scale, but I found it pretty satisfying. It's so cake-y! I already have wool to make another one.

Oh yeah, and a sewing miracle occurred while I was making this.
This was how much thread was left after I'd finished the machine sewing:

And THIS was what was left after I'd finished hand-stitching the hem:

I don't know about you, but I thought that was pretty amazingly lucky!  Ha!
So yeah, I guess I'm pretty pleased with how this skirt turned out, basic though it may be. I hope my next one's even better :)

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