Friday, 2 August 2013

How I Cracked The Yoke!

Just thought I'd put up a quick post on what I did to get my recent pleated skirt to fit.

Compared to my other projects, fitting it wasn't too hard, which was a nice change!!
Saying that, I did make four toiles, I know, seems a lot. It would have been a much faster process if I had known everything at the beginning, lol. Ahh, the learning process!

Luckily the toiles were super fast to make, all I did was cut out the yoke and sew one seam. Pin the other one closed and done. Not too painful!

So essentially, I just slashed and spread to get it to sit level on my body. I then slashed and spread the pattern to match, and rinsed and repeated!
I used my handy self-made dress form, and just went for it.

For the skirt potion of the pattern, the same pattern piece is used for the front and back, so that tells me the width of the front and back yoke pattern pieces must be the same at the skirt seamline. Ahem, my body is not in the least symmetrical like that, New Look!
Look at it tilt as it fails to cover my posterior:

Anyway, that lead to this:

Slash and spread! Bum says yum yum, gimme more fabric!
This looked much healthier, but I could see the front was now swinging away from the body at the bottom a little now:

So I pinned out the excess, not moulding it to the body, as I didn't want it clinging to me.  Just making it rest a bit more naturally.

And that was basically the process! The rest was just tweaking, and mistake-making. Like I thought I'd try chopping off the top for a lower rise yoke, getting all clever. But this just made the yoke tilt again! So I guess it needs the support of the top of the yoke, or it tends to slip under the belly and stay there. That was what I found anyway. I also made sure to try it on my REAL body and tweak from there.

Oh, and I found one more important aspect was to make sure the top of the yoke hits 1" below the waist (as it is designed to). That way, the bottom of the yoke hits in the most flattering place (to my eye), somewhere around the hip-bone.

So here are my pattern pieces after all that malarkey:

This is the front.  You can see where I've overlapped the bottom.  I had to slash the top open slightly for the pattern to sit flat.

And the back, massively curvier!
So as you can see, the seamline of the back yoke is MUCH longer that the front yoke now. Therefore, I had to choose a different size skirt for the front and the back. I ended up with something like a size 16 back, and a size 6 front. This discrepancy would be less if I shifted the side seam forward I suppose.

So, here is the first iteration of the skirt, which I made when I didn't know about this kind of thing:

I've helpfully added in the seam lines for you.  Yikes.  I need to see if I can rip this apart and make it into something better??
And here's my new one:  Worth it I'd say!

So much more balanced.  Phew!
So I have two questions for you: Do you enjoy fitting posts or are they a waste of time? Sometimes I feel I'm the only one who cares about fitting, haha!
My other question is: Should I move the side seam forward for my next iteration? I always feel the need to fine-tune things I guess :) However, I think it looks pretty balanced visually, kinda hanging out in the middle of my body anyway.

I look forward to hearing any and all thoughts and I'll be back soon with some finished projects! :)

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