Sunday, 19 January 2014

Fitting the Vogue 8766 Bodice: Part 2

Okay, so in my first post I showed my first muslin.

Muslin #1
I'm onto muslin two and I've got a lot to say about it! So if you don't like fitting and pattern alteration talk, leave now :)

But first, a disclaimer! I am just finding my way through, with a bit of help from online sources, but a lot of following my nose, so keep in mind my theories and ideas could be a load of nonsense :)

So, for my second muslin I tackled several issues but not all of them. I didn't want to try too many changes at once, since it was enough of a mess already.

I always find taking out excess length makes a huge difference, so I took out a chunk of length for my short waist in a straight tuck across the front and the back. That's the simple stuff! It really helps take away the distracting wrinkles though.

I'll go over the rest of my changes from the top down.

1) Shoulders: Oh my goodness, I faffed around with these for so long! I had read in various places that the shoulders are what the garment hangs from so they're super important to the fit. So I was hoping that by fixing the shoulder area, I'd fix all the tilting that was going on.
Long story short, it wasn't the answer to the tilting. I experimented with various things, but ended up deciding that I would just redraw the shoulder seam. I took 2cm length away from the front and added 2cm to the back, to get it sitting right on the top of my shoulder.
According to Sarah Maynard, a good shoulder seam should not be visible at eye level from the front or the back.

I overestimated how much I need to move it though! Now it sits too far forward, but interestingly, this showed me that I need to move the seam LESS on the neckline side- see how it's much more visible at the neckline edge than the shoulder edge?
So I'll be moving it back a little on the shoulder side, and moving it back more on the neckline side, instead of just moving the whole seam the same amount.
Ooh, learning!

2) The upper back: This was an alteration I was prepared to make, as I've made it before. I tend to need a bit more length in the upper back for my rounded shoulders (This may be a posture/hunching thing, or may be prominent shoulder blades. I like to flatter myself and tell myself it's just my shoulder blades, lol! I don't believe myself.)
I've found this manifests itself in my garments in two ways- tightness/strain in the shoulder blade area, or droopy armhole wrinkles that point towards the shoulder blades. I had a bit of both here- I noticed in the photos the slightest strain wrinkles pointing from the shoulder seam to the area. I also noted my HBL was slightly high, indicating the need for more length.
So I added some length there, slashing the muslin and letting it drop. Fun!
By doing that adjustment, it also got rid of the armhole gape, as the length across the back was now in correct proportion.
So I think by now this is a pretty tried and true adjustment for me.

muslin #1 

muslin #1 pinned in adjustment
muslin #2 
Muslin #2 . My shoulders are asymmetrical but I'm not going to bother adjusting them separately...
More on the upper back- you can see on muslin #2 in the picture above I pinned out an armhole dart on one side. I did this when I had the garment on my custom body double, as it was still gaping a bit. But when I tried it on my real body, the drooping wasn't an issue. It seems my posture has improved since I made the body double?

This is me exaggerating hunch posture, and see the armhole starts gaping again (along with creating other issues)
3) A quick note on a learning I had about the HBL above the bust. Why was it angling up? This must indicate a fitting issue! I agonised over it, before realising, duh, of course it's going to angle up, it's going over the bust, so it has a shape underneath it… I realised after seeing someone else ask about it on the course, the point of the bust HBL is to check it is level from apex to apex.

4) The tilting HBLS! The HBL was going up in the front, and down in the back. I apparently have a tilted waist?  Essentially my front is longer than standard and my back is shorter than standard.

Therefore I added length to the front and took out from the back. I think I will slightly reduce length in front, but it looks almost even now at the waist, so that's good.
In the past, I'd never added to the front, only taken away from the back. I wish I knew if it's the same net result.

*getting technical* Now, in the pattern work, these uneven wedges distort the darts and seams below them, so I trued them up like Lynda does in her class. However, I'm thinking if I hadn't trued the side seams up, it may have rectified the side seam tilting, as width would have been added to the front, and taken away from the back. Coincidence?? I have no idea.

*more technical stuff* After I'd made those pattern adjustments, the HBLS and VBLs (horizontal and vertical balance lines) below those points had been broken, so I redrew them on the cross grain. However, I'm wondering if I should have redrawn them on the new diagonal angle, as it still appears to be tilting on my new muslin. This is something the class didn't cover.

5) The side seam tilt:

Though I do wonder if it's related to the previous point I addressed, I suppose it can be addressed separately just as well!

I'm planning to add to the front and take away from the back to fix the slant of the side seam, same concept as the shoulder seam really- essentially redrawing it. It really feels like cheating to redraw a seam. Like… really? It's that easy? Shouldn't there be some big technical thing about it? Haha.

Or maybe I should correct it at the armhole level so it's centred under the armpit- if I move it back at the waist, it won't be in the middle of my body, the whole seam will sit towards my back. I'm going to ask Lynda... I suppose it'll complicate any future sleeves if I mess with the armhole.

I just think the tilting looks really stupid. It's annoying. lol.

6) I added to the side seams evenly so it would be large enough in the waist.

7) I still need to increase the length of the back waist darts. The fit in the back isn't too bad now. If I'd clipped the back armholes, it would look better too, as it's too wide with the seam allowances included.

8) I'm planning to adjust the width across the front to make a small bust adjustment.

Alright, so that's all the fit talk for now. Watch this space!
Making muslins is hard enough work, but blogging about them takes a lot of effort too! Phew, I can't wait till it's over!

On a more fun note, yesterday was my birthday, and I got some crafty gifts, yay! I got some vouchers for fabric and yarn, and Gertie's Book for Better Sewing, as well as The Perfect Fit. Fun times! Well, it will be when I get over this fitting hump, lol :)

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