Sunday, 1 March 2015

A small post about smalls

I've posted about undie-making before, having made made myself pants from Ohhh Lulu, and some for my fella too, from Thread Theory. The blogosphere seems to be a bit obsessed with bra-sewing at the moment (see SewaholicLladybird, Very Purple Person, and Clothing Engineer for a few examples!) but I haven't ventured that far yet! (Though I certainly would like to... I'm definitely a bit scared though- mainly of the fitting I admit!)

Anyway, this is a super simple free undies pattern from "So, Zo, What do you know?". It's faster to sew than the Ohhh Lulu pattern I have used, because this one only has side seams, rather than side panels! I still like the Ohhh Lulu pattern though, because it gives you more fun opportunities to play with fabrics. However, I can't deny that the speed of sewing these ones from So, Zo up is extremely satisfying.

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This was my first encounter with fold-over elastic, having used picot for my previous underwear efforts. I must say, I really like the finish, and found it quite easy to sew on! It feels more durable than picot and feels really smooth and comfortable (some nasty-quality picots I've gotten are a bit scratchy). I also think it looks great. I used So, Zo's instructions for how to assemble them, but I have decided I don't like that way (though it is perfectly fine).  

You can see in the picture below, the top edge has been finished my preferred way. This way, I enclose the side seam in the elastic. It looks smooth and neat.
The bottom edge has been done with the side seam finished last. I don't like this because it looks lumpier, and also my overlocker struggles to get over all those layers.


And oops, omg rogue threads need clipping!

I made the UK size 12, which equates to an Australian size 14. That's larger than I wear, but I thought I'd better size up. And I'm glad I did! They're definitely not too loose.


I chose to sew my elastic on simply by sandwiching the fabric in between the two layers, although some instructions advise you to sew it in two passes. One to secure the first side of the elastic, and then another pass to secure the other side. That way is slower, but more fool-proof. I lived on the edge and did it in one pass, and it worked fine, so hooray!


As you can see, I sewed the elastic on with a wide zig zag (and not a terribly straight one, but hey, I was learning as I went). I stretched the elastic slightly, as I'm used to stretching picot in the same way. However, I'll try doing it without stretching next time; the undies pinch in a bit at the elastic.  Not in a way that hurts, but it is enough to give me subtle lumps, haha! I don't wear clothes tight enough to reveal the pinches though, so it doesn't matter.


For next time, I've added a little bit more butt-coverage, so hopefully that works well! I'm looking forward to perfecting this pattern in terms of construction and fit, and then making a little run of them, production-line style. I'll never want for undies again!


The fabric is the leftovers from the dress I made here. Using leftover knit fabric means the elastic and thread is really the only cost. :)
This post has been a little sparse on pictures, but I hope it's helpful to anyone considering making their own undies. I encourage it, as they are cheap, fast, and fun :)

I know a lot of you have made your own, and I'm keen to hear your opinion on which elastic you like and your fav finishing techniques!