Sunday, 18 October 2015

Completed (again): McCalls Knit Dress

Hello! I made a merino dress! I've made this knit pattern a few times now (McCalls 5974), so for a more in-depth look at the pattern, check those out, particularly my first encounter with it, where I grumped about the pattern, lol.
Update on the older makes: I definitely wear the merino one the most. The other ones are more thin and clingy so I feel a bit more self-conscious in them. Plus the merino one is perfect with tights, which feels less exposed again.
Oh, and apologies for the wrinkles in my dress!





To summarise the problems I have with this pattern:
-Big 4 and their notorious ease. I went down 3 sizes to start with, and took it in from there. LOL at them including 4" of ease in a fitted knit dress. Guys, what are you UP TO?

-The construction instructions are dumb and time-wasting. I elaborated on this in my first post. Also, lol at their instructions including an option for a zip (so unnecessary for a knit, I guess unless you used a super-stable non-stretchy knit).

Oh! I also made my lovely Mum one out of some super luscious merino. She looks beautiful right?? And the dress is only a small part of that :)  I made a similar size to mine with just a few minor tweaks to improve the fit. Adjustments to the shoulders, waist and a slight FBA.



The merino I used for mine was on special, and it's definitely not as nice in quality; it feels a bit thinner, and not as delightfully soft as that gorgeous teal merino. Still, I've been wearing it plenty as a casual, warm dress. I wish my fabric was a little beefier though, as I think a thicker knit makes it more dressy. As I mentioned, I'm not a fan of thin and clingy knits!

Actually, looking at these pictures now, I think I would have done better to shorten it a little; I think that gives a more youthful look. Also, I feel quite comfortable in shorter skirts when I know I'm going to always wear tights with them!




Okay, let's talk about the hem. It is wonky as heck. Because I was too lazy to level it. I ALWAYS regret not levelling hems. Okay, hopefully the lesson sticks this time. I thought I'd be smart and lengthen the back, as that always needs less taken off when levelling (due to my butt!). As you can see, I over-compensated and it's actually too long in the back. Better than too short I guess? lol.



I've covered my construction notes in the previous posts, but for your reference, it is mainly overlocked. The hem on the neckline is nothing fancy, just double rolled and topstitched. I know some people finish this with a shorter band that pulls the neckline in, to prevent gape, but for this dress I've found this actually unnecessary! Another tecnhique I considered was putting some clear elastic in it, but I went without, and it is fine. This may vary between knits though.

Even though hemming around a neckline curve would be a disaster on a woven, the knits I've used have taken this treatment without complaint. Even after going through the wash multiple times, the neckline on my grey dress is holding up great. So sometimes keeping it simple totally works.

The sleeve and skirt hems are finished with a twin needle. Pretty standard stuff.
This dress is on the practical end of the spectrum so I can't say I'm totally excited about it, but I'm glad to have it. :)

Looking like a dork giving a twirl! As you can see I wear a half-slip with this dress to combat the cling-factor.


Anyway, HOORAY I don't have to wear this much anymore - the weather is warming up and I'm so happy! Bring on the warm weather, and bring on Summer :) And Summer dresses ;)