Saturday, 16 June 2012

Fitting the Taffy Blouse

I'd love to say my Taffy came out well fitting with no effort, but that's not the case.

I actually made two muslins/toiles (I never know what to call them!  Since muslin is a US term, I guess I should use toile- but I never hear anyone say toile, so it sounds weird! Muslin it is).  Please excuse the ugly fitting pics!

Well, Colette Patterns drafts for a C cup and I'm an A cup.  So naturally the first muslin came out rather baggy in front.  I probably should have adjusted the bust before even making the first muslin, but I'm quite unsure of myself, and cautious about making changes too soon.  Maybe next time though!

Very baggy bust
The other issue I spotted was that the wide neckline and shoulders were making the sleeves hang off my shoulders.

It seemed especially wide in the back.  See the diagonal wrinkles on the left here?   I tried pinning (on the right) and it seemed to make it better:

However, I had no clue what I was doing...

I decided to adjust the neckline and armholes.  I'm not sure tinkering with the armholes was the right thing to do, but I thought I'd give it a go.  I appreciate how the relaxed fit of the top made fitting less stressful!  Here are the adjusted pattern pieces.

You can see I've added to the neckline, and marked lines to shave off the armholes.

Maybe I should have done a narrow shoulder adjustment instead?  That way the armholes and therefore sleeves wouldn't be affected.  I dunno.  Secret time- I didn't adjust the sleeves since I was scared to (did I mention I have no idea what I'm doing? lol).  This meant I had to overlap the seam allowances when sewing it up, to get the curves to match without puckers.  Not a good way to go!

Anyway, on to the bust!  I couldn't figure out how to tell how much to take out.  I tried pinning various places, and scouring the internet.  I still don't know to be honest!  I found one site suggesting to take out an inch for each cup size.  So C cup to B cup= 2 inches out (1 inch each boob!).  So I tried doing a Small Bust Adjustment on my pattern piece of 1 inch.
I used this to make the small bust adjustment on the french dart.

Then I sewed up a second muslin!  No sleeves this time!  This somewhat crummy picture shows the improvements:

But it was still a bit big in the bust!  In the end I decided to take out a further 3/4 inches each side from the bust.
After my aggressive overlapping, the dart ended up so tiny that it freaked me out!  But I decided to go ahead with it anyway.
So all up, I took out 1 3/4 inches (4.5cm) out of each side- that's 3.5 inches (9cm) all up!

I made this comparison for you :)
The un-hemmed length of the muslin seemed just perfect, so I added 1.5cm length to compensate for the hem on the final garment.

I made one more alteration before the final thing too.  I decided to add width around the backside like I did for New Look 6808, because it seemed a bit tight; it was tending to ride up in the back.

And here are the final pattern pieces!

Ummm, does anyone find these fitting posts interesting besides me?  I put a lot of effort into them because I am trying to learn fitting.  I love to see other people's processes too...It's not about just about the finished object, it's about the journey to get to there!

PSST- Hey, any Wellington sewing enthusiasts out there?   Me and Emily at Calico Stretch have been plotting some kind of Wellington meet-up.  You don't have to be a blogger, just let us know if you're interested!


  1. I do! Fitting is such a challenge, I love seeing how other people figure things out.

  2. Thank you for going through your process. I haven't done a SBA yet so this is helpful. Keep them coming! I just know how long multiple muslins and changes takes so I appreciate the documenting as well along the way.

  3. A bunch of us meet up every Wednesday night at Made on Marion to sew, why don't you come down and join us some time? :)Any time from 5pm onwards and we're generally there until 8.30-9.

  4. I find them very interesting! I'm really inspired by all the effort you go to in order to get the right fit. And a little embarrassed, because I'm generally not willingo to put in that much work!

  5. I love fitting posts! I think it's so interesting to see how people address different sewing dilemmas. You really did a great job adjusting this!

  6. I too love fitting posts especially when they are for folk with similar shapes to me. SBA is one of my things to do when I get to a blouse pattern, so I've bookmarked you for future reference. Thanks Jo.

    PS thanks for the linky link :) I will remember next post, promise.

  7. Fitting is such a chore for me and I still have to clue how to adjust a pattern piece so I love seeing how others do it. I'm usually not that patient and it shows in the end. What kind of paper do you use to trace your pattern pieces to?

    1. On this one I had used cheap interfacing, but now I find that I prefer to just buy greaseproof paper from the supermarket (not sure what Americans call it). It's really cheap, and slightly transparent (so good for tracing). You have to tape it together for large pattern pieces but I really like using it. :) Hope this helps!

  8. I definitely like fitting posts! And I think what you call greaseproof paper is maybe wax paper here in the US, but not 100% sure.

  9. Thanks everyone! I'm glad to know there is interest out there so I'll keep up with the fitting posts :)

  10. Yes, I find your fitting posts VERY interesting and helpful. I love that you make reference to other helpful blogs as you write your posts...helps us too :-) I stumbled across your blog this morning and have been reading through all of your posts. I love it! Thanks for sharing.


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