Thursday, 5 July 2012

I hope you like talking about fitting!

Alright.  I finally did it, I finished New Look 6808.  (Blog post here.)
Time to take another look at the fitting process.

Last time, I was struggling with the back.  I wanted it fitted enough to skim the curves of my back as I think the baggy back wasn't very flattering on me!  I wondered if I had a sway back, but pinning horizontally didn't seem to work out.
In the end I decided to make two extra back darts (rather a huge reduction in the back- each dart was 2.5cm wide).

Sort of like this.

This followed the curve of my back much better.
Was this the "right" way to do it?  I don't know!  Do I have a sway back?  I still don't know, lol!  These answers may come in time....

I also fussed with the front a bit too.  I did another small SBA, and then thought I was really smart by moving the bust dart up, since on my muslin the dart was too low.  But I wasn't smart, lol!  I found out while constructing the final top that when you do a SBA, that naturally moves the bust apex up.... so I had to move the dart back down again. 

Then when trying it on, I found excess fabric at centre front at the waist. 

Spot the wrinkle?
I increased the front vertical darts a bit to take it in.  Again, not sure if that was the right thing to do, lol.  At that point though, I just didn't care.  You're not the boss of me, fabric!
Yeah, then I had wrinkles under the boobs.  But a good pressing sorted them.  Not the boss of me!

Pre-pressing- Not perfect, but better.

Things I have learned through this process:
  • This top wasn't as easy to fit as I expected!  I suspect a princess seamed top like the Pendrell would have been easier to start with!  More seams= more control.
  • I realise that my desire to have things fit my body very snugly may not be quite compatible with this pattern, lol.  I'm not used to wearing wovens- my usual is a body-hugging knit top!  The good news is that I can *just* get this top on and off.  lol!
  • People on the internet are so helpful and I appreciate every word of advice and encouragement.  Thanks guys!

Thoughts for next time:
  • I will have to figure out how to reduce the sleeve cap ease, to eliminate the unwanted gathering effect.
  • I think I may have to redraw the armhole inwards.  See how it seems to be creating a vertical fold near the armholes?  I think there is too much width there.  That's my theory, anyhow.
So that's that.... for now.  I will revisit this top again.  And each time it shall be better than before!  You'd better believe it!  :)


  1. Looks good! It's pretty perfect, if you ask me!

  2. From the pictures, it looks like it fits great!

  3. I really applaud you for continuing to tweak this pattern's fit! I would have gotten bored with it long ago! Wish I had your tenacity - it looks fantastic!

  4. Your patience really paid off in the end. I admire how you've followed the rules, doing a SBA and adjusting the back to fit you. And you now have the pattern all ready to make another one that'll fit perfectly!

  5. Great learning process - the final fit looks wonderful and totally worth all the adjustments.

  6. Oh I think this is great - thanks for the pics as I'm going to have go through this sorta thing soon. I've gound a really good book too, which is useful - shall email you the deets.

    PS I reckon that whatever works is good. There's something to be said for following the 'rules' of fitting or whatever, but in the end its what works that sticks in the skills basket. Well, that's my story and I'm sticking to it :o)


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