Monday, 29 April 2013

Fitting AKA Why I Have No Completed Garment.

So, this is the project that's sucking away my sewing mojo (aka sewjo) at the moment.  New Look 6808, my old nemesis.

Yes, I first starting trying to fit this over a year ago.  I did make a finished garment out of it, but it definitely wasn't fitted to perfection.  lol.  However, it was leagues better than my first toile:

I must never forget this picture.  lol.
There's something you should know about me, and that is that I'm determined to a fault.  This pattern has made the mistake of challenging me, and now I can't rest until I've conquered it.

Of course that's easier said than done, given that my knowledge of fitting is little.  Quite honestly, I've tortured myself with it, and I know that's not good.
I went to a dark despondent place while working on it, but dare I say, it is looking a bit better now.  I think the light may be shining through, after having serious trouble figuring out what to do.
So here's some stuff I did on it.

On the front, I feel I've improved the bust fit a little.  I grabbed a dart of excess fabric from the armhole pointing to the bust, and rotated it into the bust dart.  You can see the excess in this picture (on the right).
So this is my current toile:
I reckon the front ain't bad.  Shorten the bust darts slightly and I'm happy.
I added a centre back seam in an effort to accomodate my curves better.  This is the biggest thing that was driving me crazy- a clumsy, wrinkled back.  I really struggled with this all throughout! 

So many wrinkles.  So many.

At this point, I didn't know what to do.  I let out the centre back seam at the waist a bit which helped, since there were wrinkles pointing to it.

Then I ignored the lower back for a bit and slashed the shoulders to accommodate my shoulder blades, which will also add a shoulder dart like I showed in this post.  It was gratifying to see that tension relax:

I hope you can see the difference in the before and after in the strain on the shoulder blades.  Although I admit the lighting is different.  Oops.

So, progress had been made.  But.... THAT.  BACK!  The fit on the back has tortured me since the start.

First of all, my apparently giant butt seems like it can never have enough fabric.  The garment constantly rides up on my butt!  Yet my back curves in a lot.  Without sufficient darts, I look "back-pregnant" as Andrea would say.  But I just didn't know how to get it to sit nicely. My frustration reached critical levels.

I then thought maybe I'd gone overboard with the shaping so tried reducing the darts slightly, but honestly, I couldn't tell if it made it any better.

Anyway, a few days later, as I'd had time to stew, I got the idea to slit the seams, and I think they have revealed the answer.  So here is the before and after:

Better right?  Please tell me you agree.  By the way, seeing pictures, I'm amazed at the size of my caboose.
 Anway, getting that back transformation was as simple as doing this:

Update for clarity- I don't plan to have a split on the final garment- I will add the size of the split to the centre back in my pattern work :)

So that's the progress.  Oh and I didn't even mention the sleeve malarkey.  I'm over it.

What do you think?  I know it's not perfect, but I've looked at it so long that I can't see it objectively any more.  It's a bit better right?  Would you say... ready for a real garment? 

I wonder how many hours I've spent wandering the house in my toile, poking at its wrinkles in the mirror and hoping for some magical answer to shine down on me.  For now it's just good enough to know that if I bash at it for long enough, something will improve.

But seriously, guys, do you have any advice?  I know I'm being my perfectionist self (umm whoops, didn't I have a goal about that?), but I just gotta beat this thing.
What would you do? :)

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