Monday, 7 October 2013

Completed: New Look 6808 Teal Mod Thingy

Squint with me at my new garment!
So this was a big project for me. I challenged myself to design a new style using New Look 6808 (yes, we all know I have a traumatising history with that damned pattern). But I figured if I was going to attempt to design something, I might as well use it as a base since it fits okay after all that work.

My big idea was to have a go at rotating the bust darts down to the bottom of the garment, and using them as release tucks, which I like to call "boobie-tuck-thingies". This is quite an unusual detail in modern fashion I think, but you can see Shanni's 40s inspired boobie-tuck-thingies here, and Gertie's portrait blouse here (her version just uses one tuck each side).

I also changed the neckline to a boat neck and made tulip sleeves (or at least my best attempt at them!)

I got a few tips from Mrs C (who runs Made Marion), such as pressing the darts open instead of to the side (it makes a difference!). While I was at her shop I met a new blogger called Sophie. She makes gorgeous stuff, check it out! She happened to have her new Anna dress with her. It has the same kind of tuck detail at the bust, and they are pressed open too. Neat!

And while I'm talking about other bloggers, I MUST mention, the only reason I made something out of this fabric was a crazy idea we Wellington bloggers had- a bunch of us made garments out of the same fabric so we could look like crazy people in public together:

I don't normally wear teal, but to play matchy-matchy I made an exception. Spot a few other indies in the mix there? (Hawthorne, Pendrell, Chantilly)... See Nikki's or Juliet's posts for more details on the madness that was!

For the tulip sleeve I toiled up 3 different versions before it looked good enough. That's a lot of work ya know! (In defense of my hard work, the first tulip sleeve looked really rubbish, I swear!) Damn, all the other bloggers I've seen making tulip sleeves made it seem so effortless.
There are quite a few tutorials on how to make a tulip sleeve but I think this one is the best. The tip about overlapping the hem really helped me out. Before I did that, the sleeve flared out quite unattractively.

My body is twisted here hence the wrinkles, but it shows off the sheen of the fabric well (it's a silk/cotton blend)
I have a tendency to put too much detail into things. Upon completing it I wondered if bound edges + tulip sleeves+ boobie tucks are all too much in one garment. Now, I just don't want to think about it anymore. lol.

I was pretty over this project by the end of it, just from all the work I'd put into it. And after putting so much effort into it, I can't see it objectively. Does that sound crazy? Would I like it if someone else designed it?? Haha. I'm not sure if I like it yet. Maybe in time I'll see. I think I'm ready to just paint by numbers for a bit. This was a lot of mental exertion!

It's funny, I don't know why I'm driven to make things as challenging as possible for myself! I find it a lot more taxing for me to try and design stuff. It's so much more involved than colouring in between the lines, and it takes so much more time! Plus my inner critic pipes up far too often- hey, maybe it's just another way to grow, huh?

Hey garment, I have no idea if I like you or not!
It was a lot of work binding all those edges. I did it once before on my Taffy blouse, and had the same issue this time. The lightweight fabric tends to get puckered into the binding if you're not careful. I had to be very strict with it and pin, pin, pin. I think it's still a tiny bit puckered in some places despite that...
There are lots of little details on this garment that could be improved but I'm trying not to focus on them :)

Ooh speaking of puckers, my sleeve caps are puckered! Sleeve caps are so annoying, but I couldn't be bothered trying to get them perfect. It'll do. For one, I think there is too much ease built into the cap. And I'm not too sure the fit on the sleeves is that great either. I'm noticing on the back of the shoulder it kind of balloons out a bit. Maybe I need to shave down that side of the sleeve cap? Do sleeves drive anyone else bonkers or is it just me?

But yeah, I'm really glad this project is over and hey! it didn't turn out too badly I reckon. I'll give myself a pat on the back for that. As for the style? I think the release tucks are an unusual feature but I'm not sold on them. What do you think guys?

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