Friday, 24 January 2014

Fitting the Vogue 8766 Bodice: Part 3

Phew, here we go again... Muslin #3. Well technically, #2.5, as I just cut a new front and used the old back!
Here's a link to post #1, and post #2.

A recap:
Muslin #1

Muslin #2
New muslin... #3!
Apologies for poor quality photos, guys.

Here are the changes I made:

-I moved the shoulder seam again, to be on top of my shoulder for reals this time.

- I raised the neckline (this wasn't fitting, I just did it because I figured I'd like to use the pattern as a base for other styles, so wanted to make sure the high neckline worked).

-I reduced the length at the front in the waist slightly, to make the waistline more level.

-I did the small bust adjustment by slicing through the apex and waist dart, tapering to nothing at the shoulder seam. This is the main change for this muslin. I don't think it made a huge different to the fit of the bust, really.

 -BUT, I noted the side seam tilt was improved by the bust adjustment, though it still tilted a bit. I guess that makes sense, as I took out width at the bust level, pulling the garment forward at that point.

Muslin #2 side seam tilt
Muslin #3 Look! It's much straighter!!
So does this mean the side seam tilting backwards was partly, if not all, a small bust issue?

-More bust stuff: I think I'll decrease the length of the waist darts as they are riding up a little high to the apex. And I'll lengthen the side bust darts as they are chilling out a bit too far away from the apex...
I'm also going to try curving the waist darts in a bit under the bust to contour to my body better. Gertie explains it here.


-I still needed to lengthen the back waist darts. Related: the centre back gapes outwards at the waist. Based on the advice of the teacher, I increased the waist darts a little.

-I pinned in some small neck darts also as it was tending to gape at the back of the neck. I'm thinking I'll rotate these into the small shoulder darts already formed with my shoulder blade adjustment. (And you can't see the shoulder darts on this muslin because I was too lazy to stitch them and just eased the back shoulder into the front shoulder.)

Muslin #3 back
Muslin #3 back after added dartage!
You can see in both pictures, that my right shoulder is higher/more prominent than the other, as it has more strain lines pointing to it and the HBL is slightly higher on that side! Isn't that interesting. But I'm not going to make an asymmetric pattern piece as it doesn't bother me.

-On one armhole, I clipped and turned it under to see how the armhole really fits. It looks pretty good, but I think I need to scoop it out a little around the top/front of my shoulder. I also feel I need to raise the armhole as it's pretty low. I'm thinking the armholes being too wide is why I'm getting those vertical lines of looseness from the shoulders.
I read on Neeno's recent fitting series, that a forward shoulder (which I have), needs less width in the front armhole, which definitely is true for me here.
For a style with sleeves, it would probably be good to leave all or part of that extra width, for a better range of motion. But for sleeveless, I think I'll just scoop out the extra by drawing a new armhole.

-The side seam tilt was still bugging me, and I felt the bust was still a little loose. Here's where I came up with a simple solution- to simply pin out extra width on the front at the side seam, tapering to nothing at the waist.

Now the only worry I have with this, it that I'm reducing the armhole circumference. That'll mess up the sleeve I suppose (not that I'm even bothering with that for now!), but I also worry that it might make the garment less comfortable. I think for my (hopefully) final tweaks, I'll scoop out the armhole to a flattering width in front, and wear my muslin around like a crazy person to make sure it's comfortable!

I feel I'm on the home stretch here, but do you want to know something funny? I don't even have fabric to make a dress for this!! Isn't that amazing... sometimes I get so caught up in the fitting, I almost forget that there is a possibility of getting a garment at the end of it. That light at the end of the tunnel can seem rather dim at times.

Now please people (oh, you're still reading?? Well done!), if you have any thoughts or feedback on this, let me know! I crave understanding of fit!

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