Sunday, 24 January 2016

Completed: Stripy Boatneck

Hi! I made another dress from my bodice block.
I love boatnecks; I've already made quite a few things with this neckline, and I'll probably be making more in the future! 

You can barely tell from the photos, but it's covered in stripes! It looks quite grey from a distance.
I made it from a cotton/spandex blend. It's quite crisp. I decided to line both the bodice and the skirt in a cotton voile, but it wasn't really necessary to line the skirt as it is not too sheer.
I did think to myself that it might end up a bit full and puffy, but then I realised I DO quite like full and puffy skirts. Haha. Because I pleated the lining of the skirt in the same way as the shell, it's quite voluminous because of the crispness of the cotton. I considered using a more streamlined skirt pattern for lining the skirt, but I couldn't be bothered going to the trouble. 

This shot of the back shows off the fullness quite well.

Also, this fabric LOVES to wrinkle so it's got that rumply look going on. The back looks like it fits a bit weird here, but it's the same bodice I always use so I think it might just be the belt I'm wearing. It's puckering in the extra in the waistline. I feel like my dresses are a bit extra roomy lately, but I don't think I'll bother altering it as it's not very significant.

You can see the pleats a bit better in this pic:

Also, PUFFY BUTT! :)

I made a new pleated skirt this time. For my last pleated dress (below), I felt like the pleats were too far away from the centre back.

I moved them towards the centre back this time and I like the effect better; it looks less like an awkward flat space across my butt.

I also increased the number of pleats from 3 on the front and back, to 4 on the back and 5 on the front. I was having a really hard time figuring out the best spacing and depth of the pleats! I wanted them equidistant, but not too far from the centre front OR side seam, etc. I just kept playing around until I got something that seemed about right. The pleats are at a ratio of 2:1 to the waistline.

Anyway, here are the guts:

Hems. I just top stitched the hem on this, keeping along the white stripe so it wouldn't cross onto the dark stripe and stand out.

Lined bodice
As I mentioned previously, I am getting more confident with lining bodices and doing it my way.  To close up the waistline seam  I decided to go inside the bodice to machine stitch the lining and bodice waistline seams together as far as I could, and then close up the holes near the CB zip by stitching in the ditch. It looks a little wonky from the inside, but hey! No hand stitching, which is a win.
I thought I might have taken notes on my order of construction, but I can't find them! So maybe I didn't, lol.
Close up of janky-looking machine stitching. You're welcome

Invisible zip!

For next time? I would consider making the boat neck "boatier" (lol) by widening it even more. Also, increasing the neckline darts slightly to take away that last little bit of gape.

Also, there is a weird pucker near my shoulder on one of the armholes, caused by ??? It might be the lining fighting with the shell at the armhole. I found the sewing of the very narrow, anglular shoulder a bit tricky so I wouldn't be surprised if that was the cause. This fabric just shows every wrinkle so that doesn't help. Hah, it didn't annoy me that much until I focused on it just now. Curse you, wrinkle!
Update: I think I'd just pressed a crease in, a hot iron seemed to get rid of it. lol :)

Anyway, all in all, I'm pretty happy with this dress, as it is a versatile basic!
What's your favourite basic? More and more I'm in love with dresses... they're so easy to wear. :)

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